Step 1: melt 125g butter in a saucepan and skim any white solids from the surface. Keep the butter warm.
Step 2: put 3 egg yolks, 1½ tbsp white wine, 1 tbsp tarragon vinegar, a pinch of salt and in a metal or glass bowl that will fit over a small pan with barely simmering hot water.
Whisk for a few mins, whisk continuously until pale and thick, about 3-5 mins.
Step 3: kill the heat and slowly whisk in the melted butter, bit by bit until it’s all incorporated and you have a creamy hollandaise.
(If it gets too thick, add a splash of water.)
Step 4: season with a squeeze of lemon juice and a little cayenne pepper. Keep warm until needed.
Tip from John Ash: No matter how skilled you are in the kitchen, emulsion sauces like hollandaise sometimes “break,” or separate. If this happens, you can try to correct it by whisking in a teaspoon or two of boiling water, a drop at a time. If that doesn’t work, put another egg yolk in a bowl and very slowly whisk in the broken sauce. Usually, the sauce will come back together with one of these methods.
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